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Torrontes wine will be the next "invasion Argentina" to the U.S. Scientists Spot

predicted The New York Times, who praised its fruity aroma and flavor

Eric Asimov The New York Times

NEW YORK .- It is said that is the most attractive torrontés has associate of Argentina since the tango. Or at least from the malbec. It is a grape and a white wine, and some say it will be as popular in America as the pinot grigio. And perhaps some day. But first things first.

Have you ever heard of Torrontes? The grape is grown almost exclusively in Argentina. Yes, Spain is also a grape called Torrontes, but apparently the two grapes are unrelated. It has been shown that genetically Argentina is a hybrid of Muscat of Alexandria and the Creole or

mission.

torrontés
The lineage is interesting in that it has more than a passing resemblance to the gloriously fragrant muscat. The best Torrontes is highly aromatic, lush floral, citrus with a touch rich. If you put your nose in a glass This wine will not know whether to sell as wine or perfume.
Argentina has a talent for dark grapes. Took Malbec, a red grape forgotten in Bordeaux, France, to which no attention is paid in Cahors, known as cot in the Loire Valley, and became a phenomenon juicy, fruity, money generator, identified only with Argentina. Can torrontés become malbec white counterparts? In 2010 Argentina exported more than 231,000 boxes torrontés to the United States, according to Wines of Argentina, a business chamber. The figure seems minuscule compared with 3.15 million boxes of Argentine malbec States United received last year. But compared with the mere 29,999 boxes torrontés exported to the United States in 2004, growth has been remarkable.

torrontés Since the assault, our wine panel recently felt obliged to taste 20 bottles. We could easily have tested 50, given the number of wines out there. For the test to Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Brett Feore, the beverage director Apiary in the East Village, and Carla Rzeszewski, wine director John Dory Breslin and Oyster Bar in West 29 Street. From the beginning it was clear that the torrontés has some identity issues. These wines cover all over the map stylistically. Some are dry, light and fresh, as pinot grigio. Others are thick, heavy and rich, like California chardonnays ultramadura grape.

This can be a problem. All kinds of wines are its stylistic deviations, but customers can often understand the basic signals. Chablis is a chardonnay that one can reasonably suppose that is lean and mineral, with no oak flavors. In the same way one might expect that a California chardonnay is richer and oak flavors would not be surprised. Of course there are exceptions, often wines that have been around long enough to establish his own identity. But torrontés not have a clear identity, at least not yet, and the unpredictability of what's in the bottle does not help.

No matter where we place the wine spectrum, we conclude that its quality depends on a crucial component for acidity. Are light or heavy, if the wines have enough acidity are lively. The rest is limp, sticky and unpleasant.

Florence had another issue with these wines. "Some are concentrated, but end up with a vacuum, watery," he said. "And often the aroma and taste do not get along." Three subvarieties

So what did we like? These beautiful aromas, or Brett said: "Floral, Mandarin, muscat, cute!". Carla found a little bitter some of the wines, which I appreciate.

Just to make a little more complicated to torrontés, is that the grapes in Argentina have three subvarieties: the Torrontes La Rioja, the best and most aromatic, which comes from the northern provinces of La Rioja and Salta, the less aromatic Torrontes San Juan , of San Juan province, south of La Rioja, and much less aromatic Torrontes Mendoza, Mendoza area, which may not be related to anything with the other two. While not trying to guess what subvariant was used in each wine, we find a geographical correlation. Of the 20 bottles we tested, 11 were in Salta and other northern provinces, eight were of Mendoza and San Juan. But the top 10, seven were from the North, including the top four. Only three were from Mendoza and tended to be less aromatic.

Our No. 1 and the best value, at $ 15, was the Michel Torino Cuma 2009, Cafayate Valley, Salta. With plenty of acidity, Cuma is fresh and lively, which makes its tangerine and melon aromas with vibrant result instead of heavy. The same for our N ° 2, Catena Alamos 2009, also from Salta, which was completely refreshing with aromas of chance.

The story is similar to Nos. 3 and 4, both of Salta. The kids in Susana Balbo, 2010 is fragrant with melon and citrus, well balanced, like the Thomas Achával Nomad 2009, which has an added touch of herbs. In contrast, the N ° 5, Norton What I have, and No., 6 Goulart, both of Mendoza, are much more reticent aromatically, but pleasing and balanced enough.

At this stage in the evolution of torrontés there is much experimentation. Clearly some wines are produced in steel tanks, which accentuates the flavors fresh and lively. Others may have been briefly aged in oak barrels, which adds depth and texture. Luckily we found little evidence of new oak.

For my part, I was encouraged by the wines we liked, in particular the top five. Their exuberance is unique and pleasant aroma, with the warning that the wine must be consumed while young.

For comparison with the pinot grigio, it seems premature and misleading. The best-selling pinot grigio are so indistinct that do not offend anyone but those who seek wines defined. The torrontés instead are quite rare, which gives them the power to offend. In terms of wine, it is often a good thing. CHOSEN

$ 15

Michel Torino Cuma
Del Valle de Cafayate Salta, 2009. Fresh and lively with depth.

$ 14 Catena Alamos

NO HELMET NOT DO IT!

Friday, February 4, 2011